Sunset beams over Paris

From our beautiful Paris balcony, this beautiful sunset on our last weekend here.

Today is also a very special day for the long - awaited LHC. (link here) The first beam will happen today at 9:o6 Paris time. There is live coverage all day. The Paris news has had been reporting about it for the last few days. Yesterday there were three articles in Le Monde. It's an exciting day for the scientists.

This is my last entry reporting about Paris and France from Paris as I leave in a few hours or as the French say, I will be starting my rentree. Undoubtedly at home we will still be basking in the afterglow and there is still is so much to tell! I hope I find the time to share those stories with you. The things I know I will miss the most can't be packed in a suitcase.

Signing off at 8:11AM.
A bientot!

Start Spreading the News!

Start spreading the news, Im leaving Wednesday!
I want to stay apart of it - Par-ee, Par-ee
These vagabond shoes, are longing to stay
Riding the metro every which way. Par-ee, Par-ee

I wanna watch strangers in the park, soak in the art
And find I'm on top of the Eiffel!

These Eiffel tower blues, are sparkly at night
I'll savor every last bit of it in old Paree, Paree!
If I can eat creme brulee and soak in champagne
It's been fun in - Par-ee Par-ee

Credits - Inspiration given to Frank Sinatra's NY, NY.

You can find a little bit of New York in Paris but the city does sleep. After 7PM you have to travel to the airport's 24 hour grocery store to buy milk or any other forgotten item or wait until 9AM tomorrow. There are laws on how many hours people can work and this is taken very seriously.

To make you feel top of the heap there is nothing else like the champagne bar at the top of the Eiffel Tour. You feel you are in the heart of it from the top seeing that white city on a sunny afternoon. On the way down you can take your tea on the first floor, sunbathing on the teak lounge chairs and palm trees and the view will continue to remove any of the blues that may be left in you.

The Eiffel is blue with the stars on it for the next six months in celebration that France is the President of the E.U. I call this the Eiffel's blue period. On the hour in the evenings for 10 minutes the sparkles go! It's the most sparkling thing I have ever seen!

Martian Invasion!

Beware! Martian men and women wearing green suits and ties may invade the Paris metro, bus or tram you are on! As the tram or bus stop, the martian gang will swarm the entrances like bees to honey looking for passengers without a valid ticket. In an almost orchestrated dance they board and demand you show a valid boarding ticket. Some escape and some do not. These martians will lurk in the metro halls and block all the unsuspecting humans until a valid ticket is produced. None can escape their clutches. Even those who start to run the opposite direction. I had watched many attack on the metro and trams. It's quite a site to see! A few times this summer, J. & I have had our close encounters and with their fancy machines checked our Navigo passes. Luckily we passed and we were set free.

Gotta Share an Eclair! - Act 2: From Gilded Eclairs to the Golden Arches

This blog entry is in honor of the new little one in the family, Madeline! (for those not in the know, my cousin had a baby early last week.)

On Saturday, J. & I metroed over to Place de la Madeleine to review the Fouchon eclair weekend. See previous blog entry Gotta Share an Eclair. In summary the eclairs' taste and presentation lived up to its promise but the in-house dining experience was disappointing. Fouchon's is an upscale gourmet shop where all the food is displayed like art and treated the same.


After a week of dreaming about the aromas of fresh baked eclairs like in an American donut shop when the donuts are fresh out of the fryer, it was disappointing to enter through the pink tinted sliding glass doors and smell something akin to the humidity of museum air. The pink tinted sliding glass doors was like looking through rose colored glasses. So what the shop lacked in aromas, they made up for in the presentation. The eclairs sat as art protected behind a clear plexi-glass counter-top like the Mona Lisa in the Louvre behind her bullet proof shield. This eclair art was priced like art too and cost as much as our bottle of Head & Shoulder's at $7/piece.



For breakfast we ordered a coconut ganache eclair, chocolate mousse eclair and gilded eclair! I don't believe I have ever had the opportunity to eat gold. We decided to eat in the outdoor street - side cafe with pink tables and chairs. The eclairs were laid out on a pink plastic tray and we were given two silver plastic forks. It just didn't seem right to be eating an eclair frosted with gold upon a plastic tray and with plastic forks. It just didn't do justice to the beautiful regal eclair. That's all the gold did for the eclair too. The gold did not add a metal crunch nor add any flavor. The fork easily cut through like a lightly frosted cake. The taste of the eclairs was good but not out of this world.

For lunch we ordered a chicken curry and smoked salmon with peas to go. Each eclair was crated like a piece of art into their own special pink boxes and wrapped in pretty packages.

Afterwards, we walked around Place de la Madeleine. It's a square with a big church in the center surrounded by upscale gourmet food shops. The front steps of the church are flowers. All around the square are upscale shops of mostly gourmet foods from mustard shops to truffle shops. You can find 5000 Euro phones and truffles for 490 an ounce. There was a wedding at the church and we watched the bride and groom arrive in a white old fashioned Rolls with a green striped Lotus and red Ferrari close behind. From the steps of the church you can look down the Boulevard to the gold topped Egyptian obelisk on Place de la Concorde and further along the road to Invalid's gold dome. The sun really made them shine!

In the morning it was gilded eclairs and gold domes and in the afternoon it was back home to the golden arches of the Denfert -Rochereau Metro stop. Behind the pointed golden arches of the metro sign is the rounded golden arches of McDonald's. Here you can order via the kiosks shown below, log on to the free wifi or choose between beer or Pierier as your beverage. You can order the American, Canadian, British or Australia burgers, regular fries or thick fries, ketchup or pommes-frites sauce which is a sweet mayonnaise. Among the desert options are chocolate mouse and citron topped pies. The burgers come with a spicy sauce as opposed to plain ketchup. J. said he just read an article in the NYTimes that said almost everything in the French MickeyD's is made in France. This might explain why the price tag of eating at McDonald's is like $25 for two meal deals. In perspective of of the eclair breakfast which did not include a beverage or a side dish only fancy boxes, this felt like quite a deal.













This is only one weekend's food adventures in Paris. It only gets better from here! So more to come on the food adventures in Paris this summer.

Blessed by the Brand New Bishop

Friday night I decided to head out to Notre Dame just to watch the lights go on. I love watching the city lights as the sun sets. There is that magical point where the lights of the city and the light of the setting sun equal in luminosity. At that moment it feels like time has stopped. This moment makes me smile and count my blessings. This night was especially nice with a beautiful sunset. It was seredipidy that I had picked this night. It also was the night that two new auxiliary Bishops of Paris were being ordained at Notre Dame. There were Monseigneur Eric de Moulins-Beaufort and Monseigneur Renauld de Dinechin. As I arrived at Notre Dame, I had run into some security and barricades but thought it was preparation for the Pope's visit next Friday, Sept. 12th. I had no idea that this event was occurring. The angelic choir accompanied by Phantom of the Opera meets new age organ music flooded the outside courtyard making this moment truly mystical.

From the back of the courtyard I spotted light spilling out from the monstrous doors. These doors are not normally open. I approached the doors and at the gate I easily peered inside to watch the mass. Inside there were T.V. screens on the pillars so all could see, 12 men in red chasubles near the gold alter and the congregation all dressed up. If I had thought to bring a radio, I could have listened to the mass on the Notre Dame radio station. The bells started ringing and a parade of grey and black clothed nuns,
priests in white robes wearing red or rainbow stoles and Bishops with red chasubles and diamond studded or embroidered mitre's strolled through the doors. There was clapping and cheering as the two new Bishops emerged from church with crosiers in hand and mitre's on their heads. Everyone gathered around to receive a blessing including me! I was blessed by the new Bishop without a beard in the pictures below.

It was a picture worth a thousand words as nuns with smiles cheek to cheek looked up to the new bishop, kissed him and then were blessed. Oh, to have been a little angel to fly up above and snap a photo of that moment. It would have spoken for me.

Macaroon Mania

When I hear the word macaroon, I think of those baked caramelized coconut confections. In fact when I lived in Chicago, Au Bon Pain, a self-proclaimed French sandwich shop, was my favorite spot to treat myself to a tennis ball sized coconut cranberry chocolate dipped macaroon. They were half price after 6PM. I highly recommend them if you have not tried one.

So it was intriguing to me to find that macaroons in France in no way resembled those sold at Au Bon Pain. The macaroons (macaron in French) displayed in the patisserie windows were round jam or frosted filled little cakes the colors of a merry-go-around. Sometimes they had a little bling of sprinkled sugar. They sat on the shelves of the window like the sugared candy dots on the paper strip. Which was the true one? Which was the false one? I really wanted to try one of these mysterious macaroons.



My first taste of the French macaroon was at the famous Laduree (pretty pics available on their website) on Place de Madeleine. My friend Sophie and I sampled a plate of six petite macaroons. As the French would say, each one was exotically "perfumed" with violet, chocolate, pistachio, strawberry, coffee and tea. It was love at first taste. I had to learn more and learn how to make them for home.

I didn’t have to go far to get the recipe. Among the 20 sushi cookbooks on our bookshelves at home the only other cookbook was one on making macaroons called Lecon macarons. It has a lot of great demonstration photos and holds the 10 secrets to making great macaroons. The recipe is all in grams except for the liquid measurements. As far as I can tell the the recipe call for a big spoon and little spoon but not anything as precise as teaspoon or tablespoon measurement. I kind of confirmed this my friend,Chris, who has taken extensive French cooking courses in Paris. If I get more information on this I will be sure to let you know.

The bookstores are filled with cookbooks dedicated to the macaroons. There is even one of those gorgeous coffee table cookbooks with amazing photos of the macaroons called Un amour de macaron by Stephane Glacier. Since I share his name, I took this as sign that his books had to be good. This was further confirmed by the fact that Stephane Glacier was awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France. (more about it wiki) This is highly coveted award for the best craftsman through-out France and you carry the title for the rest of your life. If I read the intro to the coffee table book correctly, I think it said his specialty was the macaroon.

Most of the recipe books I skimmed had a brief history of the macaroon. The macaroon is thought to be first made by monks in abbeys in Italy. Catherine de Medici brought them to France when she got married to the King and this made them popular with the French royalty. The macaroon of the royalty was only an almond flavored little cake. I was told I could find the traditional macaroons in the campagne, the countryside. I had the pleasure of finding the treasured traditional macaroon in Yvoire, France, a medieval town on the shores of Lake Geneva. Thus the search to find the true French macaroon ended. I think they are my favorite!


According to an Elle magazine article in the spring 2008, the macaroon mania in Paris was revived by a gourmand’s blog entry entitled Desperate Macaron Girls. (link to english version) They were looking for a recipe to make the perfect macaroon in their own kitchens. The French are not the only ones mad about the macaroon as evidenced by the fact that French blog entry was recently translated into English. Who knew a blog entry could set a world wide revival of the macaroon. Has macaroon mania hit your neck of the woods? I might not have to learn to make my own if macaroon mania hits my neck of the woods. Let me know if you see them!

Oxford Style

Photo descriptions:
1st row - bridge like the one in Venice, Bodleian Library, All Soul's College
2nd row - view of street from top of St.Mary's tower, sundial,Christ Church college where filming of Harry Potter took place
3rd row - Radcliffe Camera, Queen's College where we stayed, the modern physics building

On August 17^th – 20^th, we had the great fortune to go and visit Oxford, England for four days to see some long time Chicago friends and J. could collaborate with some folks at the university. My impression of Oxford after my four days there is that it’s a town dripping in tradition and Cotswold limestone buildings with spiky spires that surround luscious green grass gardens that you are not allowed to walk on for fear of being kicked out.

We were being hosted by someone at the university. So, in following the Oxford tradition, they put us up in the senior lecturer guest room at Queen’s College. Queen’s college is 700 years old but thankfully our room was of the 21^st century and quite charming overlooking a church that has been on permanent loan as a library to another college and a cemetery where the gravestones are so worn you can’t read them any longer. There was a wedding in this graveyard one afternoon. I never did figure out who exactly was loaning the church. It was a luxurious room with a bathtub you could lay down in.

Photo description: (J. on his way to the physics dept. passed by the church we see from the window of our room)

Photo descriptions:

1st row - note about Queen's college, chalk graffiti on Christ Church college about who won the
rowing competitions, Christ Church dining room set for Harry Potter and inspiration for Alice in Wonderland,

2nd Row - old graffiti scratched on the door objecting to new elected school leader, view from top of University Church St. Mary's, the buttery!

3rd Row - St. Frideswide window, local saint of Oxford, in Christ Church cathedral; our room in Queen's college; funny sculpture outside of Oxford theater.

The University Church

Churches are a significant part of Oxford history as I learned while
touring University Church, St. Mary’s. Here you can climb the tower and pier out across the Oxford, spirescape and into the grass garden of All Soul’s College. (photo college 1, first row third photo) This church is where Oxford began. Scholars adopted this place to hold their lectures and great debates over religion. The church was home to Oxford’s first library. Students and scholars lived in houses surrounding the church. A couple of centuries later it became the place to receive your diploma and university government. It dawned on me that many other great institutions started out as divinity schools like the Sorbonne, Harvard and the University of Chicago. Religious studies had a vast influence on these scholarly institutions.

The Colleges (39 in total)

After visiting I now believe I better understand the spirit of the college system used at UCSC. Though not true at UCSC, at Oxford overtime wealthy people sponsored the building of colleges to serve as scholarly centers within themselves to boost up the education of their local pastors or to leave their mark on the world. The college buildings are built with mood ring like Cotswold limestone. Depending on the mood of the weather and the light the buildings go from pale white to sunset pinks. These buildings surround a courtyard garden of grass in which in you cannot walk upon but only stare at or is it for contemplation purposes? I don’t understand a garden with only grass but I found many of them walking around Oxford.

The students would affiliate themselves with a college where there were such perks as having a porter to clean the rooms and make the beds. So why are they looking so glum in this photo?

Each college must also raise their own money to maintain itself. Hey Bill Gates why not start a new college? Each college has dorms, a library, dining hall, chapel, and a room called the buttery located between the dining hall and the kitchen.

Buttery

What is the buttery? My interest was particularly peaked b/c there is famous bakery in SC called the Buttery. Is it possible the Buttery in SC is named after the butteries I saw in Oxford? I saw butteries everywhere in the colleges. There was even a pastry and sandwich shop called the Buttery in downtown Oxford. One day at our tomato, egg and baked bean breakfast, we asked a very friendly young lady waitress about the buttery at Queen’s College. She said the buttery was once a place where students would go and get wine and beer to drink and to mark of their name at meal times. Today the room is only used by the wait staff to sit and take a break and store extra things like silverware and non-alcoholic beverages.

Other Buttery Facts to butter you up -

• Ale and wine were the water of the middle ages so I guess the students would need it.
  
• “The word buttery has nothing to do with "butter", but comes from old French "boterie" and the Latin "botaria", meaning "cask or bottle". “
• The person watching over the buttery was called the butler.
• The buttery was a central aspect of medieval castles and manor houses in England to store drinks and other household provisions and acted like a today’s pantries.
• Dictionary.com has a brief and useful definition under number 2. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/buttery

It’s still kind of vague for me if the Buttery could transition from medieval wine shop to modern day bakeries. I will have to do more research on the use of the buttery as a pantry. Any buttery scholars out there?

Meal time protocol. (photo Queen's college dining room.)

Where you are in the pecking order determines where you sit in the dining room. We were seated at the head table for breakfast. This is a table at the far end of the dining room that sits a bit raised up. This table is positioned perpendicular to the other tables which are arranged lengthwise of the room in long line. Christ Church dining hall(not shown to the left) is famed for inspiring some of the Alice in Wonderland events and was used during the filming of Harry Potter. During the school year some colleges require that robes be worn and the scholars sit on one side of the table and the students on the other side. They stand say prayers and then eat. It’s a rule that when you go to sit down you sit down next to a person and not leave any empty chairs between you and another person already seated at the table. We met a very interesting visiting scholar doing research at the Bodleian Library on sheet music of silent films.

The Library

The Bodleian library is where you can find a chalkboard that Einstein wrote upon. Next door is the Radcliffe Camera building, the gateway to the original science collection located under the streets around the square. I heard from a tourist guide that a book is checked out once every 16 years as it now holds mostly ancient manuscripts.

Oxford Time

You hear all types of bells around town on the hour and off the hour. It’s charming for a short stay but I would hate to live next door to one of these bells and I think it might be quite difficult to find a place faraway. When visiting Christ Church Cathedral Oxford the brochure reads, “Cathedral time is five minutes later than standard time.” Therefore if the choir sings at 6PM I think this means to go at 6:05 PM. I also learned that the clock tower for the Christ Church College used to ring 101 times at 9:09PM to ensure all 101 students made it back to the dorms for curfew. The college is bigger and there is no curfew any longer.

Tea Time

One of my favorite things in Oxford was going to high tea at the Grand Café and discovering that champagne is included with the tea! The tea comes in mugs that say, "First cafe to serve coffee in England." I thought this a bit ironic now that their claim to fame is high tea. One waitress was able to tell us that during the plague you had to bring your own coffee cup to the cafe but that is all she knew about the coffee and the tea history of the cafe. High tea also comes with a three tiered platter full of goodies. The bottom tier has the spicy salmon sandwiches, the middle tier has the scones, which are more like sweetened biscuits with clotted cream, and the top tier has the chocolates.

On Friday I sat and waited for J. at the new physics building and heard the receptionist answer inquiries on where people were by saying, “They must be at tea.” I heard this at least 15 times. Indeed at tea that afternoon the folks we had tea with confirmed that tea time is taken very seriously. They also alerted me that sometimes you order High Tea but it does not include the tea. Tea time often leads into pub time. You enjoy a local pint of ale which leads to one then two then three and soon enough it’s time for fish and chips.

Oxford, the town

Oxford has many other interesting things around town such as

• One of the first museums in England,
  
• Indoor covered markets where you can find Ben’s ginger and chocolate chip cookies and hear butchers pronounce the letter “t” in the word fillet,
  
• Down the street a rather disappointing castle mostly used to hold prisoners.
  

It’s a town where you can stand on any street corner and look down the street to some sort of tower be it a clock, a bell or just a spiky spire. Another fun thing is called punting which is just a flat bottomed boat you gently push along the river using a long pole against the river bottom.

The Eurostar Surprise

We traveled to Oxford via the Eurostar to London and then a double decker bus that England is so famous for. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that J. had booked us first class for our journey home to Paris. It was such a grand ending to our visit of a grand university. We had a little corner all to ourselves, a delicious organic meal with of course all the champagne I wanted. It was one of the best meals I have had in Europe! There is no better way to travel.

Gotta Share, Gotta Share, Gotta Share an Eclair!

In Chicago you have weekends for BBQ ribs, in Santa Cruz weekends on the boardwalk for clam chowder and in Paris weekends for the Eclair! Fouchon, a rather pricey, upscale gourmet shop is gotta be starting a new tradition by celebrating the first weekend of the Eclair this Sept. 5-6. It's gotta cheer up all the Parisians back to work after their month long holiday. You take your pick of salty or sweet. Maybe their web-site will entice you to join me here for a taste test?
Eclairs have never looked so pretty or sounded so delicieux.

Wifi Gardens, Internet Blues, and Homecomings!

Dear blog fans,

Sorry I have not written recently but I have been without internet at the Paris apartment for days and then took a quick journey up to Oxford, England in between my internet blues. More on that trip in another blog. Not having access to the internet at my home away from home forced me to hit the streets and discover what other internet options Paris has to offer. I quickly found that McDonald's offers free wifi and so do most cafes. Believe it or not almost all the parks in Paris offer free wifi too! Yes, you can sit, picnic and read your latest email in your local park. The nice thing is the internet is free.

Unfortunately for me wifi connections requiring I provide my own hardware would not work as my computer is so old that the battery no longer keeps the charge. This can easily be solved by buying a new one of course or better yet fixing the internet at home. Yet, I ran into another interesting French phenomena. Most stores are CLOSED in August for the entire month. I mean quite literally the entire month.

I had always heard that the French go on vacation in August but I did not think the entire city of Paris would be absolutely empty. I took a quick survey of the restaurants listed in the Michelin Restaurant Guide for Paris and 85% of them are closed in the month of August. On our market street of Rue Daguerre, over 70% of the shops have signs saying closed until Sept. 1st. It's a new surprise every day on which ones will be open. Sundays mean even the stores that are open in August may be closed. Most of the tourist sites are still open but quite honestly it somehow does not feel like Paris without all the noise of the Parisians. However if you don't like crowded Metros, August may be a great time to visit Paris. This unique French tradition presented yet another obstacle to resolving my internet blues.

Little did I know that the light at the end of the tunnel was the great Parisian Reentree! (this word is not correctly accented) . The advertisements through - out the city changed from Soldes to REENTREE! In case I had not mentioned this before there are two months in France in which stores can have sales - January and July and Soldes means Sales in French.) According to the locals Reentree is like Welcome Home! Welcome Back! Happy New Year! Let's celebrate your return! Similar to the Back to School celebrations and store sales except it's for everyone. How fun! I am sure the shop keepers are very excited to have their customers return. And thankfully, the landlord made his reentree back to Paris and fixed up the wifi for me. Goodbye internet blues! In a few weeks I will be celebrating my reentree as well.

Be well, do good work and keep in touch!

Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (The Musical Water Fountains of Versailles)

Though some of the water fountains of Versailles may be not be impressive by today’s standards, it is impressive to think that in a era where indoor plumbing and running water were not a standard in homes that Versailles had 34 fountains and to operate them a river had to be re-routed. These fountains were only possible because of new technology developed and commissioned by French King Louis XIV also known as the Sun King. These fountains were created much like kids placing their thumb over a water hose and creating a spray. It was rumored that the water supply was so low that the fountains were only run when the King was within eyesight of them. This might explain the limited operation of the fountains which is only on the weekends in the summer during certain hours. Little has been done to alter this technology and the pipes used then have never been replaced and that is impressive.

From the granite slab patio near the Chateau you can see distant fountains shooting up like a whale’s spout above the shrubbery sea. We made a day of waltzing to the Baroque music played in the vast maze of manicured shrubbery and stumbling upon all the fountains hidden in rooms of shrubbery. Some of the geyser-like fountains were integrated into the golden sculptures of Bachus, Apollo or Neptune and often surrounded by large reflecting pools and evenly stepped waterfalls. While today many gardens are designed to look like they might in nature, the fountains and gardens of Versailles were a sculptured and manicured and nature tamed by human will. Even the smells of the garden were enhanced by artificially perfuming the air to lure you closer to the spray. A custom used during the Sun King’s reign and it was heavenly.

The universe is on the starting blocks of change….

photo descriptions -
Row 1 - Cern smart car, cooling building with lots of water running through it, entrance sign, interior poster,
Row 2 - CERN cafeteria, plaque in hallway where web was invented, coffee machine, tent buildings,
Row 3 - trunk with 20 wheels to move detector to CERN, observation tour, nice red building, vineyards surrounding CERN,
Row 4 - Sheep at CERN, interior of building, sign for Atlas experiment

This fall in Geneva, Switzerland the world’s biggest scientific experiment, the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) is about to get started at the international lab called CERN. This experiment may explain why matter is matter. In an earlier blog I discussed our car ride to Geneva, Switzerland to visit CERN. The journey to CERN was magical, fun and peaceful but was only a teaser to what was to come with my visit to CERN. J. always talks about CERN with great fondness and excitement and I have heard quite a few stories over and over again. After years of hearing these stories that have now reached mythical dimensions in my head, I finally arrived with eager anticipation to conduct my own experiment and not only observe but also to participate in a
small way.



The first time I entered CERN, I half expected a parade of bands marching down Blvd. Einstein or at the very least the fanfare of some drummers’ drumming. I only have to guess that these events are in another dimension. However, I could not miss the buzz and the murmur of excitement among the hum of cooling towers and computers – as J. calls it it’s the buzz of a common purpose. The place felt like the anticipation of a baseball game about to begin between the Chicago White Sox and Chicago Cubs. After 20+ years, 10,000+ people working
representing 60+ countries from all the major continents, this Sept. 10th will be the big turn on where protons will be created, smashed and the detectors will pick up their tracks in the search for a particle called the Higgs, and maybe a black hole or two and the ability to study of the quantum affects of gravity and maybe other warped dimensions. On Sept. 10th, the big turn on is being celebrated at parties across the globe. Maybe the Large Hadron Rap (youTube video – very entertaining) will help get a party started in your neck of the woods.



You would hardly suspect that there is a serious scientific experiment going on in these very non-descript office buildings among the sunflower fields, grazing sheep and vineyards. The first clue that something may not be as is it seems is the guarded checkpoint scanning badges of folks in cars, bikes and on – foot and it’s not the border crossing. The hotel we stayed in was in
France so every morning we crossed the border into Switzerland but I found that I was asked for my CERN visitor pass more times than my passport. The streets of the lab’s grounds are creatively named after famous scientists like M. Plank or Fermi or Einstein. The buildings and their names take after minimalism with names like building 40 or building 20. A few buildings have been embellished –like this one with the bike. Some buildings are actually canvas tents that sound like a drum when tapped. Finally I found the drums! Every so often the building’s lawn is graced with blue columns that kids play on. Could it be a contemporary version of the columns found at the Forum in Rome? Nope - These large blue columns are the magnets that act as a kind of leash to guide the electrons around the 27KM of track underground. I can only
assume that they are not working and since they are special orders cannot be returned and henceforth trash turned to art.



Inside these plain white Corbusier type buildings are office spaces that have been loved over the years with yellowing posters of past experiments, maybe a comic or two related about physics, stacks of old hardware, chairs, empty boxes, desks on every wall and whiteboards that one day might just be sold as contemporary art in a Sotheby’s auction with colorful circles and arrows, a
bunch of Greek characters punched up with some Roman numbers. I briefly thought about doing some Jay Walking through the halls and ask a random stranger, “What are the quarks and their names?” as a kind of test that this place was not a Hollywood set. The odds are pretty high that not only could the random stranger name the quarks but they would also be happy to explain the math behind them too. I may have even found that I had tapped the shoulder of a former Nobel Prize winner, I can’t recognize them but others can and it was pointed out to me on several occasions. For example I passed Jack Steinberger while viewing this plaque – “The Halls where the Web was born.”


Yes, the web was born at CERN and there are T-shirts for sale and posters too with this claim to fame. The technology to develop this experiment has been applied to many other fields like medical imaging and the computer industry too. I learned that CERN is in the Guinness Book of World Record for transferring 6GB of data in 1 second from Geneva to Southern, CA.


The more impressive and colorful structures at CERN are underground and these are the detectors. I was very fortunate to arrive the last week they were giving tours of the detectors and able to join one. Some folks will where these little blue radiation monitors the ensure a person is not exposed to too much radition. The tour begins in the detector’s control room. A very impressive space and looks a bit like a newsroom. The inside of the building that had the door to enter the detector is painted in wonderful colors of green and red and orange and blue. Our tour guide entered through a green framed door so that a blue light could scan her iris. She let us in blue door and we had to put on red hard hats. We entered a yellow elevator filled with photos of putting the experiment together. The day we toured the detector they were testing the alarm system which is a bit alarming after learning about the radiation level badges but we were assured it was only a test. Upon exiting the elevator we went through a blue door and entered a very long straight concrete hallway with a green door at the end and then into the detector area. I have to say that I have seen a Discover program about the Atlas detector and numerous other videos but none of those are like experiencing the thing up close and personal. You walk into this gigantic cavity with an enormous metal circular thing that I may have thought to be something to use to travel to the center of the earth. The place is painted in blue, yellow, green and red and there are coils of copper wires, silver wires, black cords, pipes that are in some organized chaos. The thing must be a couple of stories tall and it would not fit in my camera frame. There was a long spider like vehicle at the bottom. Unforgettable!



I asked the tour guide if the painted colors meant anything. She looked a bit puzzled and said she did not think so. I am not sure she gets this question all that often but the colors were impressive to me. I am not sure if that was b/c everything above ground is mostly white or if I had been influenced by visiting the Pompidou Center in Paris. The Pompidou in Paris has a similar color scheme and the colors on the pipes actually indicate their purpose. No one I talked too seems to know why they chose the colors they did. But I am still searching for that person who does know.



Another mystery I am trying to solve is why a large observation tour was built. It marks the border between France and Switzerland within CERN grounds. In fact you can dine in either France or Switzerland depending one which cafeteria you choose. The cafeteria in France is surrounded by vineyards of course. The CERN cafeterias are almost talked about as much as the detector. They both serve a great lunch and dinner which includes sushi, homemade pasta and a desert table that reminds me of the Italian wedding sweets table. I got to try Swiss wine that is not sold outside of Switzerland. However, I believe the most famous thing about the cafeterias is the espresso and the espresso machines they have available. Whenever someone talks about the CERN cafeteria they always mention the espresso. They get a gleam of joy in their eyes. The availability of coffee and espresso at CERN is a significant part of the culture and has been replicated at Fermi Lab in Batavia, IL with the Espresso Café and folks often will chip in to buy a fancy espresso machine within the physics department. The coffee vending machines located through-out the CERN have about 20 different options.



The food is good at CERN cafeterias but the company is even better. We ran into so many old good friends from Fermi lab there was hardly a night we didn’t have a dinner invitation. After a good meal everything looks more beautiful than it already is. CERN is wonderful place to be.




P.S. View from hotel room overlooking Geneva and CERN.

Pekin, 2008 - What Olympic Sports are you watching in the U.S?

Bonjour!

As I only have access to French T.V. I am experiencing the Olypmpics from the French point of view. There was a French broadcaster who was wearing a T-shirt with the UK flag on it and every so often the screen would flash with a scoreboard of the gold medal count with "The Queen's Loyal Subjects" versus the "Froggies". I am not exactly sure why there is this English guy. The Olypmic coverage is especially focused on fencing or judo. Paris has a large judo complex and it's a very popular sport. Other sports that have been shown but not as much are swimming, bandminton, woman's bike racing, hand ball, long boat racing and a few seconds of gymnanistics. In fencing, it seems that you must constantly tell the judges you are the best and that you should get the point b/c they touch each other with the long pointy sword at the same time. Or so J. tells me as he does a little translating. I understand only a few words here and there but not enough to follow the entire broadcast. So what is being covered in America? If you have a moment drop me line and let me know!

Somewhere over the rainbow!

During dinner yesterday we looked out the window to see this! Thankfully the thunderstorms have cooled the city down and we can catch up on some much needed sleep. It's been too hot to sleep some nights.

Driving Along in My Automobile

More Photos here

Our journey from Paris to Genève was truly wonderful. Lucky for us we had an air conditioned car at times b/c it did get hot and that might be why it used diesel gas. The countryside is made of rolling hills and such a lush green similar to PA or parts of Virginia in the summer. There are fields of wheat, sunflowers, vineyards and fields of white cows. A chateau often sits on the hilltops off in the distance. We stopped off at Chablis and admired the wine chateaus. We traveled through the Valley of Ouchy and then decided to stop off at Bourg en Bress, a famous region known for their chicken with white sauce. Just a little trivia fact that J’s knows. This town’s brown roadside historical marker had a picture of a chicken on it. It seems all the towns we passed had their own claim to fame they advertised on these historical brown signs. So we got of the auto route and picked the first restaurant we came to as J. was running late for a meeting in Genève. J. noticed a little sign for an auberge, Auberge des Rippes, across the street from the sunflower field. He has an eye for these things. As we walked in you could tell they were not used to travelers actually stopping in. At first we were nervous about getting the menu de jour expecting that the cost might be more cash than we had on hand. But it was so much cheaper than Paris we thought there must have been a mistake! The chicken was so tasty I think they must have marinated it but they say that’s just the chicken. The table had blue table clothes that sat in a lodge like room decorated with puzzles of local landscapes like Mt Blanc, or some castle I can’t remember the name of now. On our adventures home we also made time to stop off and sample some bubbly and Veuve Abul! We visited the floor and saw where they bottled the wines, riddled the wines. I had not realized they fast freeze the top to collect all the sediment and push it out. It was very reasonably priced and is not currently sold in the US.

The rest stops which are called Aire, were very nice as well and very frequent. Some of the Aires had hotels as could drive for hours and have no place to exit the auto route. All of them had clean bathrooms and among your toilet choices was a room with just a hole in the ground and squat. The majority of the stalls were all little individual rooms with toilettes. Most of the stalls in France are little rooms all their own but often the sink area is unisex which can be a little disconcerting at times. When I visited Paris in 1993 you had to pay for the privilege to use the toilets but this custom seems to be a distant memory for everyone. As you exit there is large red line through the Aire sign.

In a French town called, Flies, we circled around J’s old 1700 farmhouse where he used to live while working in Switzerland. It looked exactly like he had described so many times. Despite the fact that it did not have heat in the winter and he used a sickle to mow the lawn he has very fond memories of the place.

After the day's journey we landed at a hotel called The Bois Joly, the beautiful forest, nestled in an itty bitty alpine village at base of the Jura Mountains overlooking the valley and the Alps. It was more than I could have dreamed as our room had a stunning view of the Alps, overlooking the city lights of Geneva and it just so happened to be a full moon rising over the landscape that evening. I took a long moon bath and watched the twinkle of the city and the twinkle of the stars as I peacefully dozed off.

The Penthouse

Photo collage -
top row from the left - winding staircase, the key!, our door, our loft bed
second row - um a ladder to get to the roof?, our balcony view, part of our living room, the foyer doors entering the building
third row - bathroom, water heater in bathroom (it leaks!), door to balcony, the other half of the living room
fourth row - asian trendy light fixture in the bathroom?, view, balcony!!!!, kitchen

Now for the rest of the story -
We are moving up in the world! The day after our Bastille Day adventure weekend we had to rise and shine and move our treasured few belongings across town to move into our new Paris penthouse. We will miss Cite U. I will especially miss being in walking distance of my favorite park Montsouris, the cleaning service every Wednesday and the view from the top of the building as it overlooked the entire city of Paris from Montmartre to the Eiffel Tower to the Defense. It was a great place to start our Paris adventures and adapt to Paris. Now it's time to move on and experience life in Parisian studio penthouse!

We have been here now for about two weeks and it really feels like a home as opposed to a dorm. The neighbors only speak French and they are very friendly. You can't help but be reminded that you are in Paris when you enter the building - the large wooden doors, winding wooden staircase, the door knob in the middle of the door and the key looks like something stolen from a museum. It's been retrofitted with modern conveniences like TV! an oven and a WASHING MACHINE. Our building is fairly new for Paris having only been built in the early 1900's. Mind you the penthouse is on the 6th floor with no elevator and keep in mind that Europeans start counting floors with the number zero so it's really a seventh floor penthouse. We are really moving up! On days where I have strolled the city streets until I could collapse the penthouse may feel more like I am climbing Rapunzel's tower . This feeling quickly fades though after I lounge on our gorgeous balcony with a cool drink of white wine or flavored water overlooking the rooftops of Paris. Sometimes when I walk along the tourist shops you see photos of the rooftops of Paris in the glimmer of a full moon and a cat or two. We have this view minus the cats.

The apartment decor is Asian trendy and we have even had a our friends over for a brunch because it really does feel like a place to entertain and be entertained. It's a great place to read your books and savor life here. The layout is very thoughtful. You enter with 15 foot ceilings into the great room of the kitchen with bar and living room with couch and coffee table. There is a bookcase that scales up to the top of the ceiling. One section of the room there is a loft which functions as the bedroom. The loft area is quite spacious with a dresser, TV and a futon bed on an Asian grass platform. There is even storage for our unused suitcases. We can scoot around quite comfortably on our knees. One section of the stairs to the loft area has a platform I call my dressing room because I can stand there and get dressed quite comfortably. Yes, more stairs! Can we call this the 7 1/2 floor? There are several plants scattered throughout and I am trying not to kill them and their are beautiful paintings on the wall with an
Asian theme. The fellow renting the studio to us mentioned his love for sushi. This is represented by the fact that he has 20 cookbooks on sushi and the kitchen is stocked with twelve sets of chopsticks and sushi knives. The plates and glasses are so nice we considered buying paper products because we didn't want to damage anything. The studio's book collection contains a book called the Frenchman. It's quite famous and just published after WWII with an introduction by Art Buchwald. It's a rather funny collection of photos of a famous French actor making expressions and then after each photo a caption that says something like, "What do you think of American baseball?" It's published by Taschen so I imagine it's on eBay someplace.

As with any place there are few interesting quirks. Certain light fixtures looked unfinished, the water heater is hung above the toilet and leaks and the washing machine takes two hours for each load. To dry the clothes we hang them on a drying rack on the balcony. It took me two hours to figure out how the washing machine worked and I even sat and watched it a bit. It fills with water, spins and then sits there and then repeats itself. The first time I used it I thought I would wait until the clothes were finished. I waited and waited and two hours later I think it was done. I am not exactly sure what it's doing but there are points where it just sits there and does nothing. Our friends who came from England to visit us also mentioned they had the same type of washing machine in England. They said the dryers their may take all day to dry clothes and sometimes the washing machine and dryer are the same machine. One couple mentioned that you can buy dryers like those in the States but there is no space for the ventilation in the old buildings and electricity is expensive. Well I think it's time for tea on the balcony! A bientot!

Amsterdam in Paris - Windmills and bikes! (oh and of course the Tour de France!)

This past weekend we had friends from England come to Paris and hang out with us. We found ourselves eating in cafes and drinking at places like the la Moulin Vert (The Green Mill) near our home and then traveling over to Montmatre in search of the Twin Windmill Bar featured in Amelie and stroll by the homes of the artists that started 20th century modern art such as Renoir, Seurat, Van Gogh, and Picasso. There is still a vineyard here and there were even grapes on the vine. We took a break at The Old Windmill sports bar to sit, have a drink and watch the Tour de France on the tele. The Spanish team was posing for the cameras with their arms on each other. The tele showed us other events around town celebrating the Tour de France - such as the Vendigos zoomming around Paris! This a bike service you can subscribe to and then rent a bike in one place, ride around for 25 minutes and then return it at another location. J. and I tried our best to figure out how to subscribe to the Vendigo Paris bikes but our credit card is missing a very important component - a chip. Without this chip we unable to use our credit card for many things like buying train tickets and sadly subscribing to the bikes :( Our friends showed us their cards with the chips in it and I am still not sure exactly how it works. It's some silver diamond shape thing on the front of the card and in one of them it's splitting. Since they were only in Paris for two days it would not work for them to subscribe to the Paris bikes with their chipped credit cards. After catching up with the Tour de France and finishing our cool drinks, we ended our own tour of Montmatre at the La Moulin Rouge. Where we watched all the tourist take funny pictures of themselves. It's wee bit expensive to see a show here so we hopped the metro over to the Arc de Triomphe and popped out just in time to see the Tour de France bike racers do a few spins around the Champs Elysee. The race announcer was very excited as the French biker was winning this stage. I think this is mostly likely the best place to see the race because anywhere else along the route they just whiz by in a few seconds and that's that. On the Champs Elysee you can snuggle your way into the crowd and get a peak of the racers and their entourage of cars whiz by a few times. Some of those double decker tourist buses stopped in the circle by the Arc de Triomphe to let the folks watch the race from up high and they had a great spot to see all the action. Other folks climbed light posts and quite a few people brought step ladders. I would think some enterprising youngster could charge a few euros and let people take turns from these viewing points. It was a great ride!